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About Dr. Karen Stephen

Author ~ Flamingo Lover ~ Psychologist

Provence and Quimper on a Table

P1020647My collection of Quimper china comes from the Quimper factory, from Paris flea markets, from eBay, and even matching petite dejeuner platters from my ancestral home in Maine, a gift from my beloved Aunt Midge. I loved seeing the artists at work in the Quimper factory. Amazing how each of their marvelous patterns is created with only single brush strokes.

Adding just the right ambiance to my table setting is the delightful musical petite poupée I bought at my favorite boutique on Île SaintLouis.

And speaking of La Vie en Rose, here is my daughter’s recording of the Edith Piaf classic which was played to her guests’ delight for the last dance at her wedding (click below to play).

The Magic Moment on the Way to France

IMG_0006Undoubtedly the best moment, one full of anticipation and excitement, is when you’re at the airport, after all the packing and document-getting and trip planning, and ready for the long flight from SFO to CDG. Even the youngest can enjoy the upcoming adventure.

Researching the Corsican Nationalist Movement

In the mid 1990s when I first got the notion to write a fictional account about Corsica, I asked a colleague of mine, who visited France often, if he knew anything about the island that would provide a source of dramatic conflict in my novel. He asked if I had seen the State Department travel warnings mentioning numerous bombings, attacks, and assassinations connected with the Corsican Nationalist movement, although they were careful to point out that no tourists had ever been harmed.liberation I began my search for more information about the situation by perusing a copy of Liberation, the radical French newspaper, where I found articles by Guy Benhamou, the premier journalist covering the Corsican situation at that time. I wrote him (these were pretty much pre-internet, pre-email times) and received back copies of his articles in French and a lovely letter wishing me well in my writing endeavors.

book coverIn the year 2000, that same journalist authored a book, Pour Solde de Tout Compte: Les nationalistes corses parlent, which essentially was a “final accounting” byJean-Michel Rossi and François Santoni, the most predominate of the movement’s rival leaders. Both suggested that even the Corsican rebels were weary of the fight for independence, and of the corruption and crime which that fight had engendered. funeral santoniWithin a year both of these men had been assassinated and Guy and his family were put under police protection. This photo shows Santoni as one of Rossi’s pallbearers prior to his own death.

The conflict is not over. In 2012 alone there were twelve assassinations on the island, all related in some fashion to the ongoing conflict between separatist factions. In my novel, I touch on some of the themes of the Nationalist movement as it existed back in 1996 but, as an outsider and as a writer of fiction, I do not pretend that my portrayal is at all accurate or fair to any of the parties involved. It’s as if a foreigner were writing about our American Revolution, in which my own ancestors took part. I can only pray that through the struggles of my fictional characters, readers will understand a bit more about the political and social struggles of Corsica’s Nationalists, especially their goal to preserve the Corsican language, lingua corsa, and that they will get a glimpse of the overriding beauty of the island, its fascinating customs and history, and the courage and determination of its people.

flag and hillsThrough the centuries, Corsicans have withstood many invaders, often by taking to the maquis. My hope would be that they would tolerate and forgive the invasion of this American author into their customs and conflicts.

Le Prieuré Restaurant

Room PrieureWhen my daughter and I arrived in the off-season at Le Prieuré, astunning chateau on the Loire river just a few kilometers from Saumur, we were surprised to be offered an upgraded room gratis. Imagine our delight and amazement when we entered this spectacular room swathed in roses and graced with antiques and a huge marble bath, with its French doors opening right onto the rooftop overlooking the river. The breakfast served in the room was exactly as in this photo. My own non-digitalized photos are off in a album buried in my shed. You can seeoutside prieure the flat rooftop of the dining room in the center right of this aerial view of the chateau and our French doors that opened onto it.

In the restaurant that evening we decided to splurge and order the Gastronomique menu which at the time (1999) amounted to $200. We started with an amuse bouche in the salon, then moved to our tableFRA_PRIE_Dining_p2wide, where for the next 3 1/2 hours we were treated to course after course, eleven in all, including three appetizers, three full main courses (filet mignon, lobster tail, and duck), and three full-sized desserts, with a palette refresher of grapefruit sorbet in between, plus 5 different wines. When the waiter arrived to ask about coffee, we looked at each other and graciously declined. Not another bite or swallow was going into our bodies. We decided it was the most grand meal we’d ever had (or have had to this day). So even when we discovered to our shock when we paid our bill the next morning that it was $200 EACH, we felt it was well worth it for an unforgettable memory.

Traveling in Corsica with my daughter

Arriving Corsica Ile RousseHere we are, coming in by ferry from Nice to L’Île-Rousse. One of the perks of traveling with my grown daughter, besides the fact that she is very outgoing and fluent in French, is that we are in complete sync as traveling companions. No squabbling over when to get up or when to go to bed. And with her encouragement, I see many sights that would have passed me by had my “old bones” been making the decisions. Her theory: if we’re here we should see everything! So, armed with our favorite travel book, a DK Eyewitness Travel Guide we set out to see every nook and cranny possible during our scheduled days in Corsica.

Top on the agenda was to see many of the places that serve as locations in my novel MOTHER TONGUE which included Bonifacio, the Citadelle at Corte, the Restonica Valley, and L’Île-Rousse. Even made a few stops to capture roadside graffiti scrawled by FLNC sympathizers.Dinner on the beachMaggie dinner on beachBut one of my favorite memories was dinner on the beach at LÎleRousse, the western port where we had arrived by ferry earlier in the day.

MMM at Home Exchange in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte Baume

P1050461We enjoyed a month-long home exchange in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume which is a commune in the Var department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region in southeastern France. It lies 40 km (25 mi) east of Aix-en-Provence at the foot of the Sainte-Baume mountains: baume or bama is the Provençal equivalent of “cave”. The town’s basilica is dedicated to Mary Magdalene.P1050470

Mommy, Mimi, and the two Muffins arrived first. Our gracious and ebullient host Marc had IMG_1233the oldest Muffin in the pool and the youngest in his arms before we’d even unpacked our bags.IMG_1235 For those considering home exchanges, having a day overlap of the two families at the beginning and end of a home exchange is a marvelous way to settle in and express gratitude. My daughter used a French home exchange site to find this beautiful home with a pool.

IMG_1239The patio was a great place to relax and enjoy all of our home cooked meals. The interior was Mediterranean modern and spacious with separate bedrooms for each of us, but within earshot of the little ones. IMG_1259The baby, not yet walking, enjoyed couch cruising and both children loved the pool. In another post I will share how our four-year-old was able to attend school in the town for 3 weeks.

Joyeux Anniversaire ~ Gâteau de Château

DSC_8775Betty Crocker’s Castle Cake took precedence over our family’s usual name-your-crepe celebration as my granddaughter celebrated her 4th birthday. The ad said it’s as easy as building with blocks...not! But the birthday girl and all her guests were delighted with my daughter’s creation. And, of course, Happy Birthday was sung in both English and French. Many of her little friends were from her French for Fun preschool.

DSC_8905The “relight” candles made for extra huffing and puffing by the birthday girl and her friends. Hey, what’s the deal. I just blew you out!

 

 

DSC_8908Oh, I get it!  All I need is a little help from my friends.DSC_8912

 

 

DSC_8874Whaddya mean, I’m allergic to cake! (Little sister)

Jean-François Brahin ~ Favorite French Artist

artguy2In 2004 I was visiting France with my best friend from childhood. We were exploring the ruins at Le-Baux-de-Provence and by pure chance discovered the atelier of Jean-François Brahin. To our delight he was in residence at the time. His paintings of women captured the essence of femininity and were stunning in their honesty, simplicity, and Mediterranean hues. We each took home two of his prints. He told us he would be making a special invited appearance the next fall at the prestigious Sausalito Art Festival. Original Oil FeminiteAnd sure enough, he was there and thrilled to pose with us, plopping his hat on my head with that touch of French je ne sais quoi. We visited him at the Festival again the following year. In all I have six of his prints in addition to my most treasured possession, this original oil.

Please go to my Pinterest site for photos of the rest of his prints that grace the walls of my San Francisco Bay Area apartment. 2014-02-03 15.51.25And please note the pièce de résistance, Mediterranee Dejeuner en Carmarque. This is actually a representation of his own wedding celebration, printed on a pure silk Hermes scarf, his gift to me for being a patron of his work. Someday I will frame it for my living room.

Camping in France ~ An overlooked gem

Our mobile homeCamping in France offers a whole new opportunity for the American traveler that is often overlooked. Don’t think tents in the wilderness. We stayed at Camping à Cagnes sur mer Green Park in 2006.

swimming poolOur three bedroom mobile home bungalow had all the amenities including air conditioning and was located on acres of tree-shaded land with swimming and other recreational activities for children and adults, talent shows in the evening, and all priced well within our budget.

My son-in-law-to-be joined us at the last minute for a week’s stay that was within a short drive of all the Côte d’Azur and Provençal attractions. Hotel Negresco NiceNice with its elegant Hotel Negresco, famed pebble beach and world-famous art museumsChagall museum Nice (Musée Marc Chagall, Musée Matisse and Musée des Beaux-Arts Jules Chéret).

Provence’s most famous hilltop villages were in easy traveling distance. DSC03235We enjoyed St. Paul de Vence and the Gorges du Verdon, and even DSC03242a secluded goat farm high in the hills producing the most delicious cheese.

When exploring these camping spots, which are the favorite destinations of a large majority of French families for their annual vacations in August, expect to use your high school French visiting the websites and at the camping locations or search for British online camping sites. You know you’ve found the perfect location when there isn’t another American in sight!

Why a novel about Corsica?

cropped-house-on-edge-of-cliff-bonifacio1.jpg

The cliffs of Bonifacio, birthplace of MOTHER TONGUE

Fiction is delivered into the world, much like babies, in one of two ways. It is born naturally, accompanied by the pangs of hard labor, from the depths of an author’s imagination or cut from the world’s belly in the form of an unforgettable adventure.

My own such adventure began on a spring afternoon in 1963,  incubated in  a white Victorian two blocks off Telegraph Avenue in Berkeley, where three sorority cast offs shared space with one transferee from Stanford. The latter would be moi, who moved in after a  rash decision that only an eighteen-year-old with a broken heart can make.

widgeonThe wacky idea? Round up a bunch of students from California colleges, charter a yacht, and sail around the Mediterranean. I was the only taker and certainly the only one whose mother would have paid for such a dubious  plan.

two legionnairesAt the end of our adventure, more of which will be revealed later, we found ourselves stranded in Bonifacio, Corsica for five days while a mistral storm raged on, sending six more modern and less sturdy yachts to Davy Jones locker. Not a single inhabitant spoke to us—it was still the ugly American days—until two young Foreign Legionnaires approached and begged us to sneak them off the island. Our devious plot was foiled by a snitch among the crew, and we endured an hour’s dressing down by the Captain.

The next day we were surprised and delighted when the two Legionnaires present us with a gift for at least trying to liberate them. I will never forget my first glimpse of that stunning Corsican dagger, its blade inscribed with a Corsican proverb.daggers That image turned first into a screen play and many iterations since into MOTHER TONGUE. The protagonist, Liz Fallon, is conceived during a reminiscent five day stay in Bonifacio and thus MOTHER TONGUE, the novel, was born.