Treasures of Antibes

PicassoWavesViewI have traveled to Antibes in the dead of winter, cocooned in a scarf, turned-up collar, and mittens and watched the waves pounding the sea wall from a window in the Picasso Museum.

I have luxuriated on Antibes’ beaches at the height of the summer season and not even minded the jellyfish sting or two. The lifeguards are well-prepared with a special balm for tourists who do not heed the warnings.

AntibesNarrowStreetArchI  will never tire of walking its narrow streets and lingering for an hour or two in the Picasso Museum. And this jewel on the Mediterranean was always within easy travel reach whether my home away from home was in a camping site near Cannes (2006) or a medieval Logis in Les Arcs (2004), or a luxury hotel in Eze (2005).

Moules et pétanque et la plage et le bébé en Cassis

IMG_1295We have been to Cassis several times. But this was the littlest muffin’s first look at the pristine beach. IMG_1269Because we weren’t sure about an eleven-month-old on the high seas, we bypassed our favorite activity this time: a boat trip to view The Calanques.

IMG_1288But she did have here first taste of moules with lobster sauce at one of the waterfront restaurants located along the Quai Jean Jacques Barthelemy.

And her first gander at old men playing pétanque.IMG_1300

Mommy and the Muffins in La Selle Sur Le Bied

IMG_0061Mommy and the Muffins first destination last summer was La Selle Sur Le Bied, a beautiful rural community 110 km southeast of Paris, where they had a 10 day visit with very dear forever French friends Christian and Chantal, who have chosen this lovely community for their retirement.

The Muffins learned that basil comes from a garden, not from the grocery store and that it becomes part of very tasty dishes.IMG_0052

That there is nothing quite so interesting or charming as a stroll down a French country road.IMG_0068

That the portable travel high chair that Mommy brought along and which straps securely to any chair works just great to eat those delicious meals.IMG_0046

IMG_0065That there is a poule around every corner.

That Christian knows exactly just how to put on your shoes.IMG_0055

IMG_0090And that relaxing with Chantal creates the perfect ending to another  beautiful day in the French countryside.

Provence and Quimper on a Table

P1020647My collection of Quimper china comes from the Quimper factory, from Paris flea markets, from eBay, and even matching petite dejeuner platters from my ancestral home in Maine, a gift from my beloved Aunt Midge. I loved seeing the artists at work in the Quimper factory. Amazing how each of their marvelous patterns is created with only single brush strokes.

Adding just the right ambiance to my table setting is the delightful musical petite poupée I bought at my favorite boutique on Île SaintLouis.

And speaking of La Vie en Rose, here is my daughter’s recording of the Edith Piaf classic which was played to her guests’ delight for the last dance at her wedding (click below to play).

MMM at Home Exchange in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte Baume

P1050461We enjoyed a month-long home exchange in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume which is a commune in the Var department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region in southeastern France. It lies 40 km (25 mi) east of Aix-en-Provence at the foot of the Sainte-Baume mountains: baume or bama is the Provençal equivalent of “cave”. The town’s basilica is dedicated to Mary Magdalene.P1050470

Mommy, Mimi, and the two Muffins arrived first. Our gracious and ebullient host Marc had IMG_1233the oldest Muffin in the pool and the youngest in his arms before we’d even unpacked our bags.IMG_1235 For those considering home exchanges, having a day overlap of the two families at the beginning and end of a home exchange is a marvelous way to settle in and express gratitude. My daughter used a French home exchange site to find this beautiful home with a pool.

IMG_1239The patio was a great place to relax and enjoy all of our home cooked meals. The interior was Mediterranean modern and spacious with separate bedrooms for each of us, but within earshot of the little ones. IMG_1259The baby, not yet walking, enjoyed couch cruising and both children loved the pool. In another post I will share how our four-year-old was able to attend school in the town for 3 weeks.

Jean-François Brahin ~ Favorite French Artist

artguy2In 2004 I was visiting France with my best friend from childhood. We were exploring the ruins at Le-Baux-de-Provence and by pure chance discovered the atelier of Jean-François Brahin. To our delight he was in residence at the time. His paintings of women captured the essence of femininity and were stunning in their honesty, simplicity, and Mediterranean hues. We each took home two of his prints. He told us he would be making a special invited appearance the next fall at the prestigious Sausalito Art Festival. Original Oil FeminiteAnd sure enough, he was there and thrilled to pose with us, plopping his hat on my head with that touch of French je ne sais quoi. We visited him at the Festival again the following year. In all I have six of his prints in addition to my most treasured possession, this original oil.

Please go to my Pinterest site for photos of the rest of his prints that grace the walls of my San Francisco Bay Area apartment. 2014-02-03 15.51.25And please note the pièce de résistance, Mediterranee Dejeuner en Carmarque. This is actually a representation of his own wedding celebration, printed on a pure silk Hermes scarf, his gift to me for being a patron of his work. Someday I will frame it for my living room.

Camping in France ~ An overlooked gem

Our mobile homeCamping in France offers a whole new opportunity for the American traveler that is often overlooked. Don’t think tents in the wilderness. We stayed at Camping à Cagnes sur mer Green Park in 2006.

swimming poolOur three bedroom mobile home bungalow had all the amenities including air conditioning and was located on acres of tree-shaded land with swimming and other recreational activities for children and adults, talent shows in the evening, and all priced well within our budget.

My son-in-law-to-be joined us at the last minute for a week’s stay that was within a short drive of all the Côte d’Azur and Provençal attractions. Hotel Negresco NiceNice with its elegant Hotel Negresco, famed pebble beach and world-famous art museumsChagall museum Nice (Musée Marc Chagall, Musée Matisse and Musée des Beaux-Arts Jules Chéret).

Provence’s most famous hilltop villages were in easy traveling distance. DSC03235We enjoyed St. Paul de Vence and the Gorges du Verdon, and even DSC03242a secluded goat farm high in the hills producing the most delicious cheese.

When exploring these camping spots, which are the favorite destinations of a large majority of French families for their annual vacations in August, expect to use your high school French visiting the websites and at the camping locations or search for British online camping sites. You know you’ve found the perfect location when there isn’t another American in sight!

Why a novel about Corsica?

cropped-house-on-edge-of-cliff-bonifacio1.jpg

The cliffs of Bonifacio, birthplace of MOTHER TONGUE

Fiction is delivered into the world, much like babies, in one of two ways. It is born naturally, accompanied by the pangs of hard labor, from the depths of an author’s imagination or cut from the world’s belly in the form of an unforgettable adventure.

My own such adventure began on a spring afternoon in 1963,  incubated in  a white Victorian two blocks off Telegraph Avenue in Berkeley, where three sorority cast offs shared space with one transferee from Stanford. The latter would be moi, who moved in after a  rash decision that only an eighteen-year-old with a broken heart can make.

widgeonThe wacky idea? Round up a bunch of students from California colleges, charter a yacht, and sail around the Mediterranean. I was the only taker and certainly the only one whose mother would have paid for such a dubious  plan.

two legionnairesAt the end of our adventure, more of which will be revealed later, we found ourselves stranded in Bonifacio, Corsica for five days while a mistral storm raged on, sending six more modern and less sturdy yachts to Davy Jones locker. Not a single inhabitant spoke to us—it was still the ugly American days—until two young Foreign Legionnaires approached and begged us to sneak them off the island. Our devious plot was foiled by a snitch among the crew, and we endured an hour’s dressing down by the Captain.

The next day we were surprised and delighted when the two Legionnaires present us with a gift for at least trying to liberate them. I will never forget my first glimpse of that stunning Corsican dagger, its blade inscribed with a Corsican proverb.daggers That image turned first into a screen play and many iterations since into MOTHER TONGUE. The protagonist, Liz Fallon, is conceived during a reminiscent five day stay in Bonifacio and thus MOTHER TONGUE, the novel, was born.

MM&M at the Haut-Koenigsbourg Castle

IMG_1098Okay, three days into my blog and I’m on finally on the right topic on the right day! That’s what happens when grandmothers are still recovering from touring France with two little ones.

IMG_1099The most delightful place to take youngsters in France is one of its many wondrous castles.

IMG_1138

 

Children of all ages can pretend to be kings and queens, knights and archers.

IMG_1105Haut-Koenigsbourg Castle 55 km south of Strasbourg is a perfect example. It is filled with artifacts and has beautifully restored room and educational displays.

IMG_1096As you can see from the collection of photos our 3 1/2 year old enjoyed every nook and cranny, from drawbridges to arrow slits.

IMG_1142

Plus, for the grownups, there is the incomparable view and the authentic medieval or Alsatian food in the restaurant serving everything. Even a snap-on tray high chair to secure the toddler.

Mommy, Mimi, & Muffins Travel by TGV

IMG_1228In early July 2013, Mimi, that’s me, the grandma, left on one plane for Oxford for a week-long residential writing course, and Mommy and the Muffins, then one and three and a half, left on another plane for Paris and a stay with dear friends in La Selle sur Le Bied, a lovely rural village southeast of Paris. Joined by Mimi a week later, they all drove to Strasbourg for a ten-day stay, this time with the grandmother of the two girls Mommy tutors back home. The tutoring girls were visiting as well, so it was a fun-filled time, immersed in the warm, welcoming African and French culture of that family. The next destination was to a month-long stay at a home exchange near Aix en Provence in the town of SaintMaximinla-Sainte-Baume, this time traveling by TGV. The high-speed train stops for no one. You don’t get your luggage or one of the children off in time and you can kiss them goodbye. We had literally five minutes (instead of the usual ten since they were running late) to get one grandmother, one mother, two toddlers, two car seats, four large bags, four small bags, and a dual-stroller, onto the train at Strasbourg, having made a mad block-long dash with the whole lot after finding the direct elevator to the track out of order! Then mid-way we had to change trains. If it hadn’t been for a young man from New Hampshire and several French passengers forming a four-man “luggage” brigade, we never would have caught the second train. I can still see Mommy running breathless up and down the quay to where we were to board train number two, pushing the stroller laden with several suitcases at a time. Arriving at the Aix TGV station, we recruited another passel of helpful strangers to help us off. But as you can see from the photo, the preschooler thought her first TGV ride was all very relaxing and great fun.