MMM at Home Exchange in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte Baume

P1050461We enjoyed a month-long home exchange in Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume which is a commune in the Var department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region in southeastern France. It lies 40 km (25 mi) east of Aix-en-Provence at the foot of the Sainte-Baume mountains: baume or bama is the Provençal equivalent of “cave”. The town’s basilica is dedicated to Mary Magdalene.P1050470

Mommy, Mimi, and the two Muffins arrived first. Our gracious and ebullient host Marc had IMG_1233the oldest Muffin in the pool and the youngest in his arms before we’d even unpacked our bags.IMG_1235 For those considering home exchanges, having a day overlap of the two families at the beginning and end of a home exchange is a marvelous way to settle in and express gratitude. My daughter used a French home exchange site to find this beautiful home with a pool.

IMG_1239The patio was a great place to relax and enjoy all of our home cooked meals. The interior was Mediterranean modern and spacious with separate bedrooms for each of us, but within earshot of the little ones. IMG_1259The baby, not yet walking, enjoyed couch cruising and both children loved the pool. In another post I will share how our four-year-old was able to attend school in the town for 3 weeks.

Jean-François Brahin ~ Favorite French Artist

artguy2In 2004 I was visiting France with my best friend from childhood. We were exploring the ruins at Le-Baux-de-Provence and by pure chance discovered the atelier of Jean-François Brahin. To our delight he was in residence at the time. His paintings of women captured the essence of femininity and were stunning in their honesty, simplicity, and Mediterranean hues. We each took home two of his prints. He told us he would be making a special invited appearance the next fall at the prestigious Sausalito Art Festival. Original Oil FeminiteAnd sure enough, he was there and thrilled to pose with us, plopping his hat on my head with that touch of French je ne sais quoi. We visited him at the Festival again the following year. In all I have six of his prints in addition to my most treasured possession, this original oil.

Please go to my Pinterest site for photos of the rest of his prints that grace the walls of my San Francisco Bay Area apartment. 2014-02-03 15.51.25And please note the pièce de résistance, Mediterranee Dejeuner en Carmarque. This is actually a representation of his own wedding celebration, printed on a pure silk Hermes scarf, his gift to me for being a patron of his work. Someday I will frame it for my living room.

Camping in France ~ An overlooked gem

Our mobile homeCamping in France offers a whole new opportunity for the American traveler that is often overlooked. Don’t think tents in the wilderness. We stayed at Camping à Cagnes sur mer Green Park in 2006.

swimming poolOur three bedroom mobile home bungalow had all the amenities including air conditioning and was located on acres of tree-shaded land with swimming and other recreational activities for children and adults, talent shows in the evening, and all priced well within our budget.

My son-in-law-to-be joined us at the last minute for a week’s stay that was within a short drive of all the Côte d’Azur and Provençal attractions. Hotel Negresco NiceNice with its elegant Hotel Negresco, famed pebble beach and world-famous art museumsChagall museum Nice (Musée Marc Chagall, Musée Matisse and Musée des Beaux-Arts Jules Chéret).

Provence’s most famous hilltop villages were in easy traveling distance. DSC03235We enjoyed St. Paul de Vence and the Gorges du Verdon, and even DSC03242a secluded goat farm high in the hills producing the most delicious cheese.

When exploring these camping spots, which are the favorite destinations of a large majority of French families for their annual vacations in August, expect to use your high school French visiting the websites and at the camping locations or search for British online camping sites. You know you’ve found the perfect location when there isn’t another American in sight!

Restaurant at Le Logis du Guetteur, Les Arcs sur Argens

IMG_1309The restaurant of the Le Logis du Guetteur is probably my all-time favorite. I have dined on the restaurant’s terrace with my best childhood friend (2004, we also stayed at the Logis), my daughter and granddaughter (2013), and my daughter, son-in-law and his mother (2008).

IMG_1317The most memorable occasion was in 2008.  We had been visiting St. Tropez and had 1:30 pm reservations. The 40 km to Les Arcs sur Argens was over a twisty mountainous road and the minutes were ticking away.

IMG_1318We arrived just as they were closing down their luncheon service. My daughter, who speaks fluent French, begged the maitre d’ to seat us since we had come so far. But to no avail. But then she caught sight of the chef through an open door to the kitchen.

Dessert at Logis du GuetteurShe called to him and after much cajoling he agreed to prepare our meals but we had to decide on dessert ahead of time so that he could prepare that in advance and then leave. One of their servers, a young woman in her 20s, graciously offered to stay past her hours of duty and serve out meal.

IMG_1321The food was marvelous as always and the view from the terrace of the valley of vineyards and the medieval village of Les Arcs was unparalleled.

Exploring Chambord

P1000385I have visited the magnificent 16th century Chateau of Chambord three times but my first visit was in November 1999 with my daughter, who was just into her first year of living in France after college. With the majority of tourists off to warmer climes, we often found ourselves alone in the 130 rooms open to visitors.

DSC01728And, yes, we visited them all, reaching the various floors by walking up the double-helix marble staircase supposedly inspired by Leonardo da Vinci. I loved placing each foot in the shallow spots worn away by centuries of royal occupants climbing up and down as they plotted murders and bandied about with mistresses.

P1000386The roof top with all its minarets and spires is every bit as mysterious in person as it looks in photos. Author Henry James remarked that Chambord’s “towers, cupolas, the gables, the lanterns, the chimneys, look more like the spires of a city than the salient points of a single building.

Driving down the tree-lined avenue leading away from the chateau, a wild boar came out of the mists and stopped momentarily in the middle of the road ahead of us. How magical.

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A later visit in 2009 brought the additional surprise of dozens of mannequins dressed in opera costumes posed throughout the interior.

Dubbed as “Alain Germain dresses the Chambord’s opera,” costumes from renowned couturiers, such as Franck Sorbier, Nathalie Germain, Pascal Bordet, and Olivier Bériot, were displayed within the castle. P1000393Breathtaking!

MM&M at the Haut-Koenigsbourg Castle

IMG_1098Okay, three days into my blog and I’m on finally on the right topic on the right day! That’s what happens when grandmothers are still recovering from touring France with two little ones.

IMG_1099The most delightful place to take youngsters in France is one of its many wondrous castles.

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Children of all ages can pretend to be kings and queens, knights and archers.

IMG_1105Haut-Koenigsbourg Castle 55 km south of Strasbourg is a perfect example. It is filled with artifacts and has beautifully restored room and educational displays.

IMG_1096As you can see from the collection of photos our 3 1/2 year old enjoyed every nook and cranny, from drawbridges to arrow slits.

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Plus, for the grownups, there is the incomparable view and the authentic medieval or Alsatian food in the restaurant serving everything. Even a snap-on tray high chair to secure the toddler.

Mommy, Mimi, & Muffins Travel by TGV

IMG_1228In early July 2013, Mimi, that’s me, the grandma, left on one plane for Oxford for a week-long residential writing course, and Mommy and the Muffins, then one and three and a half, left on another plane for Paris and a stay with dear friends in La Selle sur Le Bied, a lovely rural village southeast of Paris. Joined by Mimi a week later, they all drove to Strasbourg for a ten-day stay, this time with the grandmother of the two girls Mommy tutors back home. The tutoring girls were visiting as well, so it was a fun-filled time, immersed in the warm, welcoming African and French culture of that family. The next destination was to a month-long stay at a home exchange near Aix en Provence in the town of SaintMaximinla-Sainte-Baume, this time traveling by TGV. The high-speed train stops for no one. You don’t get your luggage or one of the children off in time and you can kiss them goodbye. We had literally five minutes (instead of the usual ten since they were running late) to get one grandmother, one mother, two toddlers, two car seats, four large bags, four small bags, and a dual-stroller, onto the train at Strasbourg, having made a mad block-long dash with the whole lot after finding the direct elevator to the track out of order! Then mid-way we had to change trains. If it hadn’t been for a young man from New Hampshire and several French passengers forming a four-man “luggage” brigade, we never would have caught the second train. I can still see Mommy running breathless up and down the quay to where we were to board train number two, pushing the stroller laden with several suitcases at a time. Arriving at the Aix TGV station, we recruited another passel of helpful strangers to help us off. But as you can see from the photo, the preschooler thought her first TGV ride was all very relaxing and great fun.